Program 109:

Vancouver Island—Away from It All




When the train pulled into the station, my next journey began. It was on to one of the most cherished of Canadian cities, Vancouver.
Victoria is beautiful year round...
I did all the sights. First came Chinatown, which grew dramatically after Great Britain returned sovereignty of Hong Kong nearly a decade ago. Then I toured the original Gastown district. It was first called Gassy’s in honor of saloon proprietor Gassy Jack Deighton, who stunned the locals by getting his bar up and running in just one day. A fire in 1886 destroyed the wooden structures, and when the village was rebuilt it was named Gastown.
On the western edge of Vancouver, Stanley Park is a gem—the largest urban green space in the world. Because the city’s growth is restricted by waterways and mountains, the locals are proud their city has resisted the urge to develop its parkland and create new high-rise structures for a growing population. North of the central city are two tourism highlights: First is the Capilano suspension footbridge, which spans some 230 feet above a densely-wooded gorge below. Those who brave the bridge can traverse the Tree Tops footbridge through a living forest. Next is Grouse Mountain, which I scaled for a panoramic view of this magnificent region.
Hopping the ferry, I headed to Vancouver Island, still largely undeveloped. It has Canada’s mildest weather and attracts growing numbers of visitors.

The many gardens are quite spectacular...

Quaint Victoria, the provincial capital, reminds travelers of how the island might have looked years ago. And, of course, there’s Butchart Gardens, in Brentwood Bay, which lures flower lovers back time and time again. One of its most stunning scenes is the sunken garden, created in a former quarry. I also traveled to Tofino on the western shore of Vancouver Island, a popular resort and surfing town. Pacific Rim National Park is found here, as are some excellent whale-watching adventures.

You'll get all the material you need about this marvelous province from Tourism British Columbia, by phone at 800-435-5622 or via the Web at www.hellobc.com.
The Storyeum is at 165A Water Street in Gastown.


Gastown and Chinatown are both just east of downtown Vancouver. Stanley Park is on the city's western edge.
Capilano Suspension Bridge and Grouse Mountain are in North Vancouver, and are generally 15-minute rides, depending on traffic.
To get to Vancouver Island, you must take BC Ferries, www.bcferries.com.
Tofino is on the west coast of Vancouver Island. Victoria is on the southern tip of the island. The mural-rich community of Chemainus is between Nanaimo and Victoria.

Butchart Gardens in full bloom...


Victoria is small, beautiful, and easy to walk around. Park the car and stroll.
Butchart Gardens and the Victoria Butterfly Gardens are located in the town of Brentwood Bay, about 20 minutes from the provincial capital.


And, now, here are the special recipes for The Seasoned Traveler by Executive Chef Wayne Martin at Chartwell Restaurant in the Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver:

 

Indian Candy (Candied Salmon)

1 part packed brown sugar 1 part soy sauce.


Salmon fillets (bellies recommended)--pin bones removed, scaled and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch strips with skin on.


Warm sugar and soy sauce until dissolved. You will need enough liquid to cover the salmon strips completely. Cool the liquid. When cool, marinate the salmon in refrigerator, submerged for 48-72 hours (depending on size of strips), stirring every twelve hours. Salmon will take on a darker hue and flesh will become slightly firm.
Remove from liquid. Lay out on smoking racks and smoke on low heat for approximately 6-8 hours, or until desired smoke level is reached. Sugar should caramelize when done correctly.

 

 

Candied Salmon and Wild Rice Spring Roll


Makes 4


6 ounces Indian Candy (Candied Salmon)


6 oz. wild rice, cooked in 1 cup of water with 2 oz. of chopped onions, a pinch of fresh thyme and pinch of salt.


6 oz. onions, chopped; 1/4 teaspoon ginger, chopped; 1 teaspoon tarragon, chopped; 2 teaspoons chives, chopped.


1 cup cabbage 6 ounces chopped onions 1/4 teaspoon ginger, chopped.


1 teaspoon tarragon, chopped 2 teaspoons chopped chives.


1 pint fresh blueberries 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest salt to taste.


2 tablespoons canola oil 4 large spring roll wrappers.


Heat over to 200 degrees and cook the blueberries on a parchment-lined sheet pan for 1 1/2 hours. Add canola oil to saute pan. Heat well and add onions. Cook for one minute, then add the cabbage, ginger, and lemon zest. Cook for two minutes, then season and add tarragon leaves and chives. Cool. Combine the wild rice and cabbage mixture in a stainless steel bowl. Add the candied Salmon and blueberries and mix well. Adjust the seasoning to taste. Place one-quarter of the mixture onto a large spring roll wrap about one-third the way up. Moisten the edges and roll from the bottom. Fold in the sides and ensure all edges are sealed well.
Cook in a 350-degree fryer for approximately four minutes, or until golden brown. Then, savor the flavor.

www.hellobc.com