the seasoned traveler with george bauer

Program 203:

Quebec: C'est Magnifique


The Citadel encompasses...

It's the only Canadian province where English isn't an official language. Quebec is Canada's largest province (the territory of Nunavut is larger), and with 7.5 million people, it has the nation's second-biggest population (after Ontario). Quebec is actually an Indian word, meaning "where the River narrows", which is just what the St. Lawrence does after flowing from the Atlantic Ocean to Quebec City, capital of the sprawling province. It is three times larger than France, stretching from the U.S. border to the Arctic Circle. Most Quebec residents are in the southern end of the province, while there are endless stretches of desolation in the north.

I'm spending my time in the most-populous places and begin the journey in Montreal, largest city in Quebec. This metropolis is a Mecca for those seeking good food, good times, and great music. The International Jazz Festival each summer is one of the biggest events of its kind anywhere on the planet. There are scores of concerts and two-thirds of them are free.

The first thing I did when I got to town was head to the St. Lawrence River for a jet boat ride, slicing through the Lachine Rapids. The flat-bottomed craft I was on crashed through waves as high as 10 feet, soaking all aboard. The company provides ponchos, hats, and protection for your feet but in the end it does absolutely no good and you'll get soaked from head to toe.


The Lachine Rapids are a blast...

Chances are good you'll love every minute of it and utter not a single word of complaint. Seasoned travelers should have no fear--the ride is completely safe and it's very popular so reserve your seat in advance, especially if you are visiting Montreal in the busy Summer season. By the way, if a river rumble is not your cup of tea, there are more traditional river cruises to acquaint yourself with the magic of Montreal.

Montreal is an island. In that respect, it is similar to New York's Manhattan island. But Montreal is nine times bigger in area. Most visitors make a beeline for Vieux Montreal, the original city, full of stylish hotels, restaurants, bistros, coffee houses, bars and shops.

The classic Notre Dame Basilica is here too, a Gothic Revival masterpiece. As remarkable as the main sanctuary and nave are, I enjoyed the Chapel of the Sacred Heart equally. It is behind the main altar and you shouldn't miss it when you stop in.

To get from Old Montreal to the rest of the compact city, take the Metro, part of an excellent public transit system. Get off the train east of the downtown district and you have taken a step back in time, to the 1976 Summer Games, because you have arrived at the 114-acre Olympic Village. Montreal Tower is the 575-foot arched Observatory that literally towers over the area. Next door, the Montreal Biodome is a leading attraction-containing four habitats under glass: tropical forest, Laurentian forest, St. Lawrence environment, and Polar Region.

But the high point of Montreal is Mont Royal, an extinct volcano with an unparalleled view of the metropolis. This is a great place for a Summer walk on an extensive trail system, which become glorious cross-country ski paths when the snowflakes fly.

Even though Montreal is itself an island, it has two islands near it. Ile Ste-Helene still has many of the buildings and attractions from Expo '67, Montreal's World's Fair, back in the days when it seemed every city held a World's Fair, and could afford to do so. Nearby Ile Notre-Dame is the city's playground: bicycle and roller skating attract many warm-weather visitors while ice skating and cross-country ski trails beckon Winter visitors.


The Montreal Tower ...

And the big city is the site of several impressive festivals each year, aside from the Jazz fiesta. The biggest, and my personal favorite, is the International Fireworks Competition, from mid-June until the end of July. It's the largest event of its kind in the world. For something completely different, visit the Just For Laughs Festival in July as comedians from across the globe do their utmost to make the audience laugh out loud.

Three hours by train north of Montreal brings visitors to the regal and appealing provincial capital, Quebec City. Half a million people live here, four million others visit here each year. Quebec, as the locals call it, is the only fully-walled city north of Mexico. The ramparts were built by the French and strengthened by the British who defeated the French in 1759. After their victory, the British tried to subjugate the French but to gain the loyalty of Quebeckers as the American colonies were rebelling, London made concessions to the locals. It guaranteed them the right to the Catholic religion, the French code of law, and the French language. That's how Quebec remained French while the rest of the huge nation became English.

Quebec is dominated by the Citadel, which protected the community from invaders. It is still the largest fortification in North America garrisoned by regular troops. And every 24 hours, the Royal 22nd Regiment changes the Guard, reminiscent of the Guard-change in London.

Quebec's Lower Town is the original settlement, dating back to 1608 when Samuel de Champlain founded the colony. Today, it's a district of hotels, shops, murals, and more. In the Upper Town you can't miss the city's most celebrated landmark: Chateau Frontenac, the green-turreted castle that was once the administrative and military headquarters of New France in the New World. Today it's an upscale hotel and I'd recommend dropping by for cocktails on the outside balcony, overlooking the boardwalk and the St. Lawrence River.

Quebec City is enjoyably walkable and one of my favorite areas is Grande Allee, a few blocks of non-stop restaurants and clubs. The locals calls it the Champs Elysee of Quebec, Paris-gone-west. The Houses of Parliament are nearby and they are open for public visitation.

Fifteen minutes out of town, the breathtaking Montmorency Falls lure tourists during the day and also at night, especially each summer during an International Fireworks competition, which lights up the Falls in pyrotechnic brilliance.

The small village of St.-Anne-de-Beaupre has become a religious shrine. The Basilica here, dedicated to the mother of the Virgin Mary, is the site of countless cures. Hundreds of canes, crutches, and walkers hang on the walls of the huge church, testimonials to the miracles performed here. The current Neo-Romanesque edifice, built in 1923, is the fifth church on the site and contains a statue and relics of St. Anne herself. There are several side altars and below the Basilica's main level, be sure to see the replica of the Pieta, the statue of Mary holding Jesus Christ after he was taken down from the cross on Good Friday. The original Pieta is in the Vatican.


Cap-Tourmente is vast and breath taking...

Just a few miles from this religious retreat, there's a natural retreat. Cap-Tourmente is a major wildlife area. Migrating snow geese drop in literally during their annual migration from the Arctic to the Carolinas-the birds head south in April and May, north in September and October. Cap-Tourmente is considered the gateway to the Charlevoix Region, which residents say is the most beautiful part of Quebec.

One of the neatest side-trips takes you across the bridge near Montmorency Falls to Ile d'Orleans, Orleans Island. In fact, there's only one bridge to this tiny bit of Paradise in the St. Lawrence, an expanse of fertile farmland and tiny towns. It's quiet and agrarian, so you can buy maple syrup, home-made chocolate, apple cider and pies, wines, and even crème de cassis. It's a place you might like to inhabit for an entire summer of peace and plenty.

Because it IS part of Canada, most Quebeckers speak English but they'd prefer to speak French and if you speak French to them, they'll love you even more. In whatever language, Quebec is a bit of heaven in the second largest country on the face of the earth.

Bon voyage.