Program 213:

Peru

Machu Picchu is as stunning as can be...

            It is without doubt the leading tourist attraction in Peru and one of the world's most impressive archeological sites. It is sacred to some, profound to others. The legendary lost city of Machu Picchu is my goal in the last show of Season II.

            And I didn't see the ruins on my own; I was happy to take my daughter Lisa. She's always said she wanted to visit the ancient Lost City and so this is our chance. This special place was not even discovered until 1911 and now millions of tourists come here while millions of others want to come here. Archeologists say Machu Picchu may be the most amazing urban center ever created in the entire Inca Empire.  So, the kid and I are ready to explore this incredible site that seems to cling to the side of the mountain.

            Peru is located in Northwestern South America and it is the third largest country on the continent, after Brazil and Argentina. It's almost as big as the American state of Alaska and has a population of more than 27 million people.  The ancient Inca Empire that dominated this land for centuries was decimated by conquering Spanish Conquistadores in 1533. Modern-day Peru declared its independence from Madrid in 1821 and was finally free of Spanish troops in 1824.

            Peru is remarkably diverse. Of the 103 possible ecological zones identified by scientists, Peru has 83 within its borders.

           Among its features: Lake Titicaca, the world's highest navigable lake;  Mount Huascaran, the fourth-highest mountain in the Andes range; the Amazon River and rainforest, which make up much of the country; and Peru is home to what are said to be the world's deepest canyons: Colca and Cotahuasi.      

            Lisa and I have flown from Atlanta to Lima, the capital, a sprawling city stretching along the Pacific coast.

Barranco district of Lima ...

            Miraflores is close to the Ocean and a multitude of beaches that stretch North and South from San Isidro to Barranco and Chorrillos. And by all means stop to visit the downtown Plaza Mayor, home to the Presidential Mansion and Lima's Cathedral.

            Keep in mind that Lima is large, very large. Up to nine million people live in and near the city, one-third the country's entire population. Traffic is dense, drivers are aggressive. If you don't 'have' to drive here, walk or take a taxi.   

            From the capital, Lisa and I will fly South to Cusco. Nowadays, it's a city of 350,000 nestled in a deep Andes valley.  It's a challenge for aircraft pilots to fly into and out of Cusco. Planes can land only in earning morning hours, when winds are lighter. From on high, the city shows off a sea of tiled roofs. Our journey to Machu Picchu is officially underway.

            Cusco was the capital of the Inca Empire from the 13th to the 16th Centuries and it's the gateway to Machu Picchu. Visitors spend a few days to acclimate themselves to the higher elevation. Cusco is nearly 11,000 feet above sea level.

            Once you've caught your breath, it's a tremendous town to explore. In the language of the Incas, Cusco meant "the navel of the world." It was the source and the center of Inca life. In the 15th Century, the Inca chief Pachacutec took a village of straw and clay huts and converted it to a majestic metropolis of imposing stone buildings.

            When the Spanish Conquistadores, led by Francisco Pizarro, arrived here years later, they were impressed with the order and beauty of Cusco. They wrote home that it was the most impressive city in the New World. Pizarro conquered Cusco in November of 1533. That effectively ended the Inca Empire forever.

Ruins at Sacssayhuama, Cusco...

            What startles most visitors are the intricately-constructed mighty stone walls, which show the wisdom and strength of the Inca culture. Huge stones were set snugly atop other mammoth stones. The walls have withstood earthquakes and political upheavals but remain firm today.

            Central Cusco  was the center of the Inca universe, the focal point of what they called the four quarters of the earth.Today, it's known as the Plaza de Armas. It was once twice its present size and it was an important spot for staging both religious and military ceremonies. It was the site for mourning the dead and the Spanish later used this plaza for public executions of Inca leaders. Cusco's Cathedral, which is open for visits during the day, is one of two churches located in the Plaza.

            The plaza is surrounded by a series of portals, crammed with stores, bars, and eateries tucked away in large buildings. Visitors can spend days weaving through the myriad alleys and portals.

            The best time to view the Plaza de Armas is after dark, when the city lights enhance the stone structures and when well-worn sidewalks display a sheen.

            Five blocks away, the Church of Santo Domingo is the former Inca Temple of the Sun. The walls were once covered with sheets of gold, enhanced by emeralds and turquoise and the windows were placed strategically so the sun would shine through, casting a blinding glow on the precious metals and gems inside. Today, all that is gone.

Vast markets full of vendors ...

            Residents of Cusco get supplies at the Mercado, near one of the city's train stations. Fresh meats, cheeses, vegetables are all here. So are non-foods. There are competing vendors, so customers can shop around for the best price.

            Seasoned travelers can visit merchants but it's more likely merchants will come to you. You'll be inundated by people selling clothes, postcards, paintings, and much more.

            One excellent shopping district is San Blas, the Artisans' Quarter. There's high-quality merchandise here: Alpaca sweaters, fine gold and silver jewelry, high-quality artworks, as well as clothing and shoe stores. Be aware of this fact: many shops want your business but they don't take credit cards so you'll need to carry cash. And here's another distressing fact-of-life: merchants never seem to have change for a 50 or 100 Soles note (the currency of Peru), so get your big bills changed at your hotel to allow you to shop without headaches.

            Beyond the city limits visitors travel to the Sacred Valley of the Incas, el Valle Sagrado. Andes peaks rise on both sides of the Urubamba River. This region was once immersed by the Pacific Ocean, so the stonework is limestone.

            The town nearest Cusco is Chincero, which means place of rainbows. It's a rural agricultural region, known for potato farming. Peruvians grow hundreds of varieties of potatoes. The Incas developed the concept of terrace-farming which prevented soil erosion and allowed water to flow properly from crops higher up, to those lower down.

            The town was buried for centuries, excavated in the 1990s. Chincero was once an Inca site but later became a colonial town. The Spaniards built a Roman Catholic Church on top of the Inca Temple ruins. Today, the petite plaza in the village is a place of commerce, local residents selling their wares to visitors from other lands.

The next town along the Sacred Valley has historical roots but most people know Pisac for its marketplace. The market sets up shop Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays.

            Get your shopping-face on. It's big, brash, and a lot of fun.

Walls of Ollantaytambo ...

            Farther along the Valley, the once-mighty fortress of Ollantaytambo, a precious military and sacred site for the Incas. It's named in honor of the Inca leader Ollantay and placed strategically at the northern end of the Sacred Valley and it dates to the mid-15th Century. This so-called 'living Inca city' is said to display some of the finest architecture in the Inca world. Scientists say Ollantaytambo is perhaps the best-preserved of all Inca sites, even though the Spanish found it and set about destroying it. There's a Temple of the Sun here too. Archeologists think residents here never completed the Temple. They may have been chased away by other tribes or by Spanish invaders. Today's invaders have to hike several high steps to see Ollantaytambo properly and it's quite a jaunt.

            It's remarkable to think that the Incas knew nothing of the wheel and had no written language yet they built an empire extending 2300 miles along the Andes Mountains from Colombia to Chile. They harnessed rainfall, channeling it down the mountainside for washing, drinking, and cooking. And they developed an astronomical wall, which told them exactly when the seasons were changing, allowing them to plant and later harvest their crops.

            It is said that the Spanish chased the tribes down a valley, near Ollantaytambo, in the direction away from Machu Picchu. That's why scientists looked for ruins far from Machu Picchu and that's why Machu Picchu remained undiscovered for hundreds of years.

            But Lisa and I are about to find it.

            There are two ways to get to the sacred mountain. Lisa and I took the Vistadome train service, with lots of windows, drinks and a snack provided along the way. The ride takes about four hours. A no-frills backpacker train is also available. And there's Orient-Express-like service with all the amenities.

            On the other hand, or should I say other foot, hardy folks will hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu and thousands make the trek every year.

Aquas Calientes is hot hot, hot...

            Aguas Calientes is a neat and tidy tiny town at the base of the mountain where Machu Picchu sits. It is known for its water: hot springs and cold-running rivers. There's a compact town square, with several shops, hotels, and restaurants along the town's few steep streets.

            This is the town where you buy two important tickets: first the bus tickets to Machu Picchu. The bus company takes U.S. dollars only and it's the only way seasoned travelers can make it to the top. Younger folks may chose to walk but it's a LONG hike. The bus ride takes 20 minutes up a narrow, switchback road.

            You also buy Machu Picchu tickets at the cultural office in the Aquas Calientes Town Square. You can pay for them in either Peruvian Soles or U.S. dollars. Bring plenty of cash with you for both tickets because there's not a bank or an ATM machine anywhere in town.

            After the bus ride, you have arrived: Machu Picchu, the Citadel.

            Machu Picchu means 'Old Mountain' in the Inca language and this old mountain is often covered in moisture and clouds. A sheer drop can be unsettling to some visitors. There are two distinct sections: you'll come first to the agricultural sector and work your way to the urban sector, where the religious/astronomical/and residential structures still stand. The site is about two square miles.

            It's best to begin your visit very early or stay late, when the crowds thin and it appears 'you' have Machu Picchu all to yourself.

            Machu Picchu is not only enshrouded in mist, but also in mystery. No one knows precisely its genesis, age, or its intended purpose. There are theories aplenty. What 'is' known is that the architecture here is modeled after that in Cusco, the Inca capital. It was not discovered until July 24th, 1911, by American Hiram Bingham, a graduate of Yale University in New Haven, Connecticut, and the head of Yale's expedition to Peru that year.

            Machu Picchu might not even have been discovered, except for the fact Hiram Bingham was camping along the river and by chance he met a local campesino, a poor farmer. The peasant, Melchor Arteaga, escorted Bingham up the steep slope covered with dense vegetation and eventually showed him the lost city.

            Bingham was actually looking for the ruins of Vilcabamba, some 60 miles from here. It was the last stronghold of the Incas, as they were chased relentlessly by Spanish forces. The Spanish invaders apparently never knew this site existed because, as noted earlier, they had pursued the Incas in the opposite direction.

            Hiram Bingham returned to this spot in 1912, 1914, and 1915 with other scientists who drew maps and explored the site in detail. There are a few archeologists who say they are not even sure the Incas knew of this place either, which raises still more questions, like who really lived here and why?

Machu Picchu's many terraces...

            Some speculate that Machu Picchu was built, inhabited, and abandoned all within the space of 100 years. Inter-tribal wars, epidemics, or something else may have led to its demise.

            From high atop the hill, visitors get a good view of the agricultural terraces, which provided food to inhabitants of the Citadel. The terraces here, as at Chincero, helped halt soil erosion. There are no water canals in this section of the complex. Rain was constant and it watered the crops without the need for irrigation.   

            The House of the Terrace Caretakers is near the agricultural fields. Archeologists are not sure how many people lived here, perhaps up to 1,000 but they're confident Machu Picchu was self-sufficient. Moving from the rural to the residential region, there's a new phenomenon, stone stairways, with some 3,000 steps. There is a water system here, allowing inhabitants to bathe.

            There's still another Temple of the Sun here. It is shaped in a semi-circle and built on solid rock, There are two trapezoidal windows in this Temple, with protruding knobs on each corner. Some see similarities between this Temple and Koricancha Temple in Cusco. The tower is the only round building here and has probably the most perfect stonework of any structure on the site. There's a grotto nearby--often called the Royal Tomb, although no one has ever discovered any bones or mummified remains. There's a Royal Sector--larger buildings, which most likely housed the elders or chiefs. The secular area is where the common-folk lived and it is next to the so-called 'industrial area' where the work of the community was carried out.

            Two other temples dominate this district: the Principal Temple, with the house of the high priest at the rear, and the Sacristy behind the Temple. The other is the Temple of the Three Windows, built on top of a boulder. This is said to be the most impressive architecture in the Citadel  and, get this: the windows frame the distant mountains perfectly.

            March up 78 stone steps to the Astronomical Observation point, one of the highest spots in the Citadel. Here in an open patio sits Intiwatana: the Hitching Post of the Sun, perhaps among the most important sites. It measured time and dates, using sunlight and shadow to tell when the Solstice and the Equinox had arrived. It also served as an altar.  "Inti" means sun, "Wata" means year: Intiwatana. The stone seems to be properly aligned with the surrounding mountains in every direction.

Altar? Or something else?

            Down below, there are four main squares, at different levels. They are rectangular Inca style, interconnected by sunken stairways. They were used for religious and social functions. One building is called the Prison Group. Even then, there were miscreants. They were kept in cells above and below ground until their debt to society at the Citadel had been paid.

            Next door, an unusual stone, carved like a bird's wing.

            Speaking of animals, there are two groups of critters which have the run of the place: llamas, including the brand-new white baby when we were here. And in the rodent category:  Guyeta de Rochas, the squirrel-rabbits of the rocks, and the capiso, which looks like a large mole.

            Huayna Picchu, which means young mountain, is the towering granite peak at the edge of the ruins. The original Inca path is said to be here and it is very steep. Seasoned travelers who are fit and take their time should be able to master this mountain in an hour or so. If you can't make that trek, there are two other smaller peaks:  Huchupicchu, which is the smallest, and Wychupicchu.

            This is obviously a popular place; in fact, some worry that the intense crowds are harming the ruins and could cause the Citadel to fall off the mountain peak. One study showed the soils at the site are shifting, up to one centimeter each month. Peru, as you might expect, does not agree with such findings.

            And still, people come. The ruins are open from 7 in the morning to 6 each evening, dawn to dusk. The biggest crowds come between 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. because that's when the trains arrive from Cusco.

            Your ticket to get into Machu Picchu lasts for an entire day. You can enter and exit multiple times. Most travelers spend all or part of one day and you can see it all if you hurry. But Lisa and I spent two days here, the first was clear and cloudy with a bit of rain while the second was damp with heavy cloud cover. Every day seems unique at Machu Picchu.

            Now back to the present:

            There are two unique drinks in Peru: Pisco sours are consumed all across Peru. Pisco is a type of grape brandy made here. a Pisco sour is similar to a margarita, but the foam on the top is whipped egg white. The Pisco is mixed with Angostura bitters and gum Arabic. You can order one almost anywhere. You'll either love it or hate it. The other is Chica, a type of fermented corn brew, which is an ancient Andean tradition. If you want to find Chicha, look for a red plastic lump at the end of a pole or stick. That's the sign indicating Chicha is brewed and sold inside. You'll either love it or REALLY hate it.                      

            Machu Picchu is one of those rare places where you feel special just to visit. The majesty of the place fills any tourist with awe and makes the trip truly memorable.

www.peruinfo.com